When Rob dug into the Glengoyne core lineup in 2020, he covered a 15-year-old expression, but we’re told by the distillery that this latest release is something new for 2023. Well, maybe not entirely new. Perhaps just newly packaged, sporting a spiffy dark black label. Or newly launched for the U.S. market, although I’m pretty sure this one was available in the states before, perhaps not widely. Or maybe it really is a new formulation of Glengoyne single malt aged in first-fill sherry, bourbon, and hand-selected refill casks, the same mix that comprised the old expression. Maybe all three of these things. Anyway, enough with the maybes. All that matters is how it tastes!
As Rob noted in his review, the aroma this time around remains alluringly sweet with a honeyed cereal foundation. Nothing changed there. Notes of chewy toffee and butterscotch pudding join toasty, nut-filled granola, light brown sugar, and ginger snaps. As it opens, the oatmeal cookie quality gives way to a bit of dried orange and berry compote, the suggestion of something brighter and sherried. The palate goes well beyond suggestions of sherry, showcasing a bold, vinous sweetness accented by notes of ripe red berries, clove-studded orange, snickerdoodle, and almond cake. It’s oily and expressive with an even warmth and lively spice. Notes of cinnamon apples and toffee develop late into the sip before a pleasingly dry, oak-laced finish. A single malt that really hits the sweet spot in both age and flavor.
One thing that is definitely new since Rob’s review? The price, which has crept significantly northward. Still, it’s not an unreasonable amount to pay for a quality single malt these days.